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Fox Flannel Image
Fox Flannel Image
Fox Flannel Image
Fox Flannel Image

Fox Brothers' Tonedale Mills

Cloth is woven at Fox Brothers with the utmost care. The step by step process to create these award winning fabrics involves many skilled craftsmen and craftswomen.

Yarn is carefully sourced mainly from UK spinners. At each stage of the process quality is paramount. From British kempy wools to the high quality superfine merino wool to delicate worsteds; all are carefully sourced for the wide variety of fabrics woven at Fox.

Once the yarn is selected, the set of the cloth is carefully constructed. First the yarn is wound onto cones for the desired piece length. In turn these cones make the warp which at times can consist of over 5000 ends. These ends are ordered in the chosen pattern.

From here the warp is then threaded through headles by hand. The headles are held on shafts to create a specific weave, most commonly used is the prunelle and twill, which make our finest flannels. By hand the warp is then threaded through a fine comb called a reed: this sets the warp. The warp is now ready to be placed in the loom and weaving can commence. With the warp reaching from the back of the loom to the front, the weft travels across it as the shafts are lifted in a predetermined rhythm. Continually throughout this process the yarn and cloth is checked and reviewed to sustain the quality expected from these Fox Brothers’ cloths.

Once woven, the cloth on its beam is moved to the inspection area to be measured and darned.

The second step of magic starts in finishing. Each woven ‘greasy’ cloth is finished to a unique formula which starts with scouring, where lanolin found in the yarn is removed. Our flannels are then milled for hours to break the fibres and bring out the softness in each individual thread.

A plethora of carefully timed processes highlights, massages and presses the cloth into the final finished stages, before it can be made into fine garments by the top tailors and manufacturers around the world.

Fox Flannel Image

Fox Brothers Cloth

Woven without compromise


The Fox Brothers range consists of a wide variety of woven cloths; from lightweight worsteds, starting at 180 grams; to the classic West of England flannel at 400 grams; to heavy woollen coatings, weighing around 1000 grams. Fox Brothers is officially credited as the original creator of flannel. The range of flannels has developed over the last two centuries and now includes woollen flannels in rich mélange shades, as well as sophisticated lighter weight worsted flannels. These flannels are produced from the finest wool, woven and milled into cloth with a fabulous fluid hand-feel. Around the globe the quintessential Fox Brothers’ flannels are tailored into superb garments for the discerning wearer.

The collection of coating fabrics has its roots in the Fox Brothers’ Archives and as it has developed, covers all manner of wool and worsted coatings. For town, there is the classic milled woollen overcoat, soft to touch and the black worsted herringbone cloth, both woven from fine British spun yarns. Additionally, originally developed for country sports the thorn-proof cloth, today made up into the Covert coat. For country, there are the British Warm, wonderfully warm with natural water resistance and the strongly defined Keeper’s tweeds.

The range of worsted cloths is persistently growing, from super lightweight plain-tabby weaves for suits, including traditional serge and hopsack blazers from midnight to bright blue; classic twills and basket-weaves for jackets in a range of sophisticated coloured checks, plaids and stripes. This selection includes all styles, from formal wear cloth to casual unlined patch-pocket jacketing.

Flannel Checks
Classic Flannel
Coating
Jacketing
Michael Alden’s London Lounge
Queen’s Award Flannel
Patterns
Worsted Checks
Worsted
Vintage Bolts Collection
Special Editions
Fox Flannel
Flannel Checks
Fox Flannel Item

Flannel Checks

The styles in this bunch are inspired by a desire to wear proper checks, bold designs beautifully shaded with colourful deco details.

This West of England flannel is woven from fine woollen yarn, spun from soft merino lambswool.

To purchase or view cloth simply click below:

∼ Shop at The Merchant Fox ∼
Classic Flannel
Fox Flannel Item

Classic Flannel

This bunch consists of flannels in different weights from 300gr/10oz to 500gr/18oz including the classic “West of England” flannel, fine worsted and heavy woollen flannel in plain shades, glens, windowpanes, pin and chalk stripes.

To purchase or view cloth simply click below:

∼ Shop at The Merchant Fox ∼
Coating
Fox Flannel Item

Coating

The collection of overcoat cloths take reference from the Fox Brothers’ archives at the Somerset mill. The weights range from 500gr/18oz to 1000gr/35oz Greatcoat and Dufflecoat cloths. Also included is the "West of England" Covert cloth in several classic shades.

To purchase or view cloth simply click below:

∼ Shop at The Merchant Fox ∼
Jacketing
Fox Flannel Item

Jacketing

A diverse collection of checks, plaids and herringbone cloths, inspired by the colours of the Somerset countryside surrounding the mill. Woven in soft merino wools, weights from 300gr/10oz to 500gr/18oz.

To purchase or view cloth simply click below:

∼ Shop at The Merchant Fox ∼
Michael Alden’s London Lounge
Fox Flannel Item

Michael Alden’s London Lounge

This authentic collection of 38 flannel patterns has been taken from the 1930s Fox Brothers’ archive books. This “proper” cloth (500gr/18oz) is woven from richly coloured mélange yarns, giving real depth to the shade.

To purchase or view cloth simply click below:

∼ Shop at The Merchant Fox ∼
Queen’s Award Flannel
Fox Flannel Item

Queen’s Award Flannel

The world’s finest flannel (250gr/8oz), awarded the Queen’s Award for Industry in 2006, developed in a rainbow of colours and woven from fine worsted yarns at the mill in Somerset. These colourful flannels complement the Worsted Flannel Checks.

To purchase or view cloth simply click below:

∼ Shop at The Merchant Fox ∼
Patterns
Fox Flannel Item

Patterns

The cloths in this bunch are Fox Brothers’ original patterns from the archive ranges at the mill. A collection of sumptuous checks with elements of bright colourful deco details.

To purchase or view cloth simply click below:

∼ Shop at The Merchant Fox ∼
Worsted Checks
Fox Flannel Item

Worsted Checks

This bunch consist of lightweight cloths, 200gr/7oz to 250gr/8oz. Check designs include glen checks, windowpanes and gun clubs with bold graphic deco colours.

To purchase or view cloth simply click below:

∼ Shop at The Merchant Fox ∼
Worsted
Fox Flannel Item

Worsted

The worsted cloth in this bunch are developed from the Fox archives. These classic styles include hopsack and herringbone blazers, windowpane, glen check and striped suitings as well as small colour & weave patterns. Ideal for timeless, elegant tailoring.

To purchase or view cloth simply click below:

∼ Shop at The Merchant Fox ∼
Vintage Bolts Collection
Fox Flannel Item

Vintage Bolts Collection

Exclusive short lengths woven by Fox Brothers, selected from the extensive archive dating back to 1772. A treasure trove of classic designs and truly unique pieces.

To purchase or view cloth simply click below:

∼ Shop at The Merchant Fox ∼
Special Editions
Fox Flannel Item

Special Editions

An assembly of special edition cloths in varying weights and designs, available in limited lengths. These splendid cloths are not part of our stock supported ranges; invest in a Special Editions length to make an irreplaceable piece.

To purchase or view cloth simply click below:

∼ Shop at The Merchant Fox ∼
Fox Flannel Image

Fred Astaire

Dancer, Singer, Actor

Grey Flannel

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Charlie Watts

Rolling Stones

Navy Flannel

Fox Flannel Image

Cary Grant

Hollywood Actor

Grey Chalk Stripe

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Ralph Fiennes

James Bond - Skyfall

Navy Chalk Stripe

Our Wool

Fox Brothers only use the finest raw materials. The most famous flannel in the world uses super fine Merino, sourced from the best wool growers in Australia. This continues the tradition which was set in place by Fox Brothers over two hundred and fifty years ago of using natural fibre with its unique qualities of durability and excellence. #ChooseWool

Fox Brothers are currently actively exploring the use of British wool with the introduction of our Exmoor Tweed. Whilst a research centre is planned in Wellington for the West of England Wool Centre which will explore the multiple uses of British wool.

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